How to Choose Ground Cover for Your Backyard

Ground cover plants do quiet work in a backyard — they fill bare soil, suppress weeds, slow erosion, and tie disparate beds together visually. The right ground cover for your yard depends on three things: how much sun the area gets, what climate you live in, and how much foot traffic it’ll get. A drought-tolerant succulent that thrives in a sunny rock garden will rot in heavy shade; a delicate shade-loving fern will scorch in full sun. Here’s how to match plants to conditions, plus the specific picks that work in each situation.

How to Pick Ground Cover for Your Backyard

Five factors determine whether a ground cover thrives or sulks in your yard. Run through these before picking species:

• Climate / USDA zone. Most ground covers are perennial — meaning they overwinter — but they’re zone-specific. Check the plant’s USDA zone rating against yours before buying.
• Sun exposure. “Full sun” means 6+ hours of direct light; “part sun” or “part shade” means 3–6 hours; “shade” means under 3. Match the plant to the actual conditions, not what you wish you had.
• Soil type. Sandy soil drains fast and wants drought-tolerant species. Clay soil holds water and works for moisture-loving plants. Most ground covers do best in well-draining soil amended with compost.
• Water availability. If you don’t want to install irrigation, pick drought-tolerant species. If you have automatic sprinklers, moisture-loving species are an option.
• Foot traffic. Will you walk on it? Most ground covers don’t tolerate foot traffic; a few specifically do (Irish moss, creeping thyme, Dutch clover).

One additional consideration: aggressiveness. Some ground covers (English ivy, Vinca minor, Bishop’s weed) spread so fast they become invasive and outcompete other plants. Read the cultivar notes carefully — “spreads rapidly” is sometimes a feature (filling a slope) and sometimes a warning (it’ll be in your lawn within two seasons).

Most yards have multiple microclimates. The shady spot under the oak tree wants different ground cover than the sunny strip along the driveway. Plan in zones rather than picking one species for the whole yard.

Low-Maintenance and Drought-Tolerant Ground Covers

If your goal is “I want this filled in without watering it constantly,” start here. These plants thrive in tough conditions — poor soil, infrequent water, harsh sun — and need almost no care once established.

• Creeping thyme (Thymus serpyllum). Forms a dense, fragrant mat in sunny areas. Blooms pink, white, or purple in early summer. Tolerates light foot traffic. Zones 4–9.
• Stonecrop / sedum (Sedum spp.). Succulent with tiny blooms; offers wide color range in foliage (green, blue-gray, burgundy). Heat- and drought-tolerant. Spreads gradually. Zones 3–9.
• Hens and chicks (Sempervivum). Rosette-forming succulents that handle full sun, poor soil, and total neglect. Best in rock gardens and dry borders. Zones 3–8.
• Periwinkle / vinca minor. Fast-growing trailing perennial with white, pink, or purple spring blooms. Tolerates shade and a wide range of soils. Note: aggressive in good conditions; can become invasive. Zones 4–8.
• Dwarf mondo grass (Ophiopogon japonicus). Forms a lush grass-like carpet. Tolerates both sun and shade. Slow to establish but very long-lived once it does. Zones 6–11.
• Bugleweed (Ajuga reptans). Mats of green or burgundy foliage with blue flower spikes in spring. Adaptable to sun or shade. Spreads aggressively in moist soil. Zones 3–10.

For specifically drought-tolerant beds in hot climates, our roundup of 13 easy perennials that thrive in scorching heat covers taller companion plants that pair with these low-growing ground covers for layered drought-friendly designs.

One practical tip for establishing drought-tolerant ground covers: water them regularly during the first growing season, even though they’re labeled “drought-tolerant.” Established roots make a plant drought-tolerant; the first 6–12 months they need consistent moisture to set those roots down. After year one, you can taper to almost no supplemental water.

Shade-Tolerant and Sun-Loving Ground Covers

Light conditions split most ground cover decisions in half. Pick from the correct list based on your actual sun exposure — not the exposure you wish you had.

Shade-Loving Options

Under tree canopies, on north-facing slopes, and in deep-shade corners:

• Pachysandra (Pachysandra terminalis). Glossy evergreen foliage with small white spring flowers. Thrives in part-shade to full-shade. The reliable workhorse for shaded beds. Zones 4–8.
• Sweet woodruff (Galium odoratum). Spreads softly in shade with tiny white spring flowers and a sweet hay-like fragrance when crushed. Zones 4–8.
• Japanese painted fern (Athyrium niponicum). Silvery fronds with maroon highlights add color to shaded beds. Best in moist soil. Zones 3–8.
• Lady’s mantle (Alchemilla mollis). Scalloped leaves catch dew beautifully; chartreuse flowers in late spring. Works in part-shade. Zones 3–7.
• Lamium (Lamium maculatum, also called dead nettle). Silver-and-green foliage with pink or white spring blooms. Spreads vigorously in moist shade. Zones 3–8.

For shaded beds where you also want to attract butterflies, see our guide to butterfly garden plants for shade — several of those species double as ground cover or pair well with the options above.

Sun-Loving Options

For sunny beds, hot driveway strips, and south-facing slopes:

• Creeping phlox (Phlox subulata). Covered in pink, purple, or white blooms in spring. Tolerates rocky soil and full sun. Best for sloped or terraced areas. Zones 3–9.
• Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia). Larger than typical ground covers (12–18 inches tall) but spreads to fill sunny areas with fragrance and pollinators. Zones 5–9.
• Dianthus (“pinks”). Cushion-forming mats with clove-scented pink, red, or white blooms. Compact and tidy. Zones 3–9.
• Creeping thyme — see the low-maintenance section above; equally at home here.
• Ice plant (Delosperma spp.). Succulent with neon-bright flowers in summer. Best in dry, sandy soils and full sun. Zones 5–9 depending on species.

For dense color in sunny borders, plant in drifts of 3–5 of each species rather than spotting singles around. Drifts read more intentional and let pollinators recognize and return reliably.

Fast-Growing Ground Covers for Quick Coverage

If you have a large bare area and limited budget, fast-spreaders fill in within one growing season. The trade-off is most fast-spreaders are aggressive enough to need containment — they’ll happily move into your lawn or smother slower neighbors if given the chance.

• Blue star creeper (Pratia pedunculata). Tiny blue star-shaped flowers, dense green carpet. Tolerates light foot traffic. Spreads fast in part-shade to full sun. Zones 5–9.
• Creeping Jenny (Lysimachia nummularia ‘Aurea’). Bright yellow-green foliage that spreads vigorously in moist sunny areas. The ‘Aurea’ cultivar is less aggressive than the common form. Zones 4–9.
• Sweet woodruff — listed above in shade; also fast in moist conditions.
• Ajuga (Bugleweed) — listed above; spreads aggressively in moist soil. Useful for filling, but contain it away from your lawn.
• Periwinkle / vinca minor — listed above; fast in good conditions, can become invasive.

One way to use fast-spreaders strategically: plant a fast aggressive cover as a temporary “nurse crop” on a bare slope to control erosion while slower long-term ground covers establish underneath. Pull or thin the aggressive species after 2–3 years as the permanent planting takes over.

Ground Cover for Slopes and Erosion Control

Ground covers on slopes do double duty — visual cover and root-zone soil stability. Pick species with extensive root systems that bind the soil under their leaf canopy.

• Creeping juniper (Juniperus horizontalis). Low-growing evergreen shrub that spreads horizontally with a deep root system. Excellent on steep banks. Year-round structure. Zones 3–9.
• Crown vetch (Securigera varia). Deep roots, vibrant pink flowers, tolerates poor soil. Aggressive — use only where you want it to take over. Banned in some states as invasive. Check local before planting. Zones 3–10.
• Periwinkle. Dense root mat is a moderate-strength erosion controller in shaded slopes.
• Pachysandra. Same — strong choice for shaded slopes.
• Ornamental grasses — not strictly ground cover but worth including. Switchgrass (Panicum), little bluestem (Schizachyrium), and prairie dropseed (Sporobolus heterolepis) all have deep fibrous roots that stabilize slopes and add texture.

For best erosion control, combine ground covers with taller anchoring plants — shrubs or small trees with deep tap roots. Layered planting (canopy + mid-layer + ground cover) is dramatically more effective than ground cover alone on slopes steeper than 3:1 (one foot of rise for every three feet of run).

Pet-Safe and Family-Friendly Picks

If kids and pets use the backyard heavily, prioritize ground covers that are non-toxic and tolerate at least light foot traffic. The standard low-maintenance options aren’t all kid- and pet-safe — vinca, ajuga, and English ivy are all mildly to moderately toxic to dogs and cats.

The reliable family-friendly choices:

• Creeping mazus (Mazus reptans). Tolerates light foot traffic, non-toxic to pets, and produces small purple-blue flowers in late spring. Spreads gradually. Zones 5–8.
• Irish moss (Sagina subulata). Soft cushion-like green carpet that takes light foot traffic. Safe if pets nibble. Best in cool, moist conditions. Zones 4–8.
• Dutch clover (Trifolium repens). Tough enough for actual play, safe for pets, fixes nitrogen in the soil, and attracts pollinators. The best mowable lawn alternative for family yards. Zones 3–10.
• Roman chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile). Apple-scented when stepped on, low-growing, tolerates moderate foot traffic. Safe for pets. Zones 4–11.
• Corsican mint (Mentha requienii). Tiny mint-scented leaves form a low mat in part-shade. Edible if pets nibble. Zones 6–9.

For pet-friendly weed management alongside these ground covers, our roundup of natural weed killers safe for pets covers options that don’t compromise the safety of the planting.

Native and Sustainable Ground Covers

Native ground covers — species that evolved in your region — typically need less water, less fertilizer, and less pest management than non-native ornamentals. They also support local wildlife: pollinators, songbirds, and beneficial insects all coevolved with native plants.

• Wild strawberry (Fragaria virginiana). Spreads by runners in sun to part-shade. Small white spring flowers, red berries that feed birds and small mammals. Edible for humans, too. Zones 3–10.
• Creeping phlox — listed in sun section above. Native across much of eastern North America.
• Bearberry (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi). Evergreen native of cool-temperate North America. Red berries feed wildlife. Best in acidic, sandy soil. Zones 2–6.
• Prairie dropseed (Sporobolus heterolepis). Native ornamental grass with delicate seed heads. Drought-tolerant, attracts birds, thrives in sunny dry areas. Zones 3–9.
• Pussytoes (Antennaria spp.). Native to most of North America. Silvery foliage and small white blooms; tolerates dry, poor soil. Host plant for American Lady butterflies. Zones 3–9.
• Wild ginger (Asarum canadense). Native to eastern woodlands. Heart-shaped leaves in dense shade. Hosts pipevine swallowtail butterflies. Zones 3–7.

Native ground covers anchor an ecological garden. Pair them with other natives — see our roundup of the best native plants for pollinator gardens for taller companions that work with these low-growers to build a habitat-supporting landscape.

One quick caveat: “native” is regional. Wild strawberry native to the Midwest isn’t native in Arizona; bearberry native to the cool north isn’t native in the deep South. Check that the species you pick is genuinely native to your specific region, not just to “North America.”

Creative Ways to Use Ground Cover in Your Yard

Beyond filling open beds, ground cover plants have specific functional uses that make landscapes look more polished:

• Between pavers and stepping stones. Slow-growing low ground covers (creeping thyme, Irish moss, Corsican mint, Scotch moss) soften the edges of hardscape and prevent weeds from establishing in gaps. Pick slow-spreaders so they don’t overrun the pavers themselves.
• As living edges along flower beds. A 6-inch border of creeping thyme or dwarf mondo grass keeps mulch in place, hides drip lines, and creates a clean line between bed and lawn without using plastic or metal edging.
• In rock gardens. Hens and chicks, sedum, and creeping phlox all play well with stone and gravel, softening the harshness without hiding it. Plant in pockets of soil between rocks.
• Under specimen trees. Shaded soil under trees is hard to keep planted. Ground covers solve it — pachysandra, sweet woodruff, lamium, and wild ginger all thrive in tree-root competition where lawn struggles.
• Around water features. Moisture-loving species (Creeping Jenny, moss phlox, lady’s mantle) frame ponds and fountains and tolerate the splash zone.
• As lawn alternative for difficult areas. Strips along driveways, slopes too steep to mow, narrow side yards — all candidates for replacing grass with a more appropriate ground cover. Cuts mowing time and water use.

Putting Together Your Ground Cover Plan

Effective ground cover use comes down to three habits. First, plan in zones — your shaded slope, your sunny rock garden, and your family play area need different species, and trying to use one plant everywhere always fails somewhere. Second, plant in drifts of 3–5 of each species, not singles spotted around. Third, water generously through the first growing season even for drought-tolerant species — established roots make a plant drought-tolerant, not the species itself.

Seasonal interest matters too. Most ground covers bloom for 2–4 weeks, then settle into being foliage for the rest of the year. Mix bloomers with evergreen species (pachysandra, dwarf mondo grass, bearberry) so the garden has structure year-round, not just during peak bloom. A typical successful planting combines one evergreen workhorse, one spring bloomer, and one summer or fall bloomer in the same zone.

And give it time. Most ground covers fill in over 2–3 growing seasons. Year one looks sparse; year two starts looking like a planting; year three reads as intentional, established landscape. Resist the urge to over-plant in year one — overcrowded beds end up needing thinning later.

Common Questions About Ground Cover Plants

How do I choose a ground cover plant?

Match the plant to five conditions: your USDA zone, sun exposure (full sun, part shade, or shade), soil type, available water, and foot traffic. Most yards have multiple microclimates, so plan in zones rather than picking one species for everywhere.

What is the most low-maintenance ground cover?

Creeping thyme, sedum (stonecrop), hens and chicks, and dwarf mondo grass are the most forgiving once established. All tolerate poor soil, infrequent water, and full sun with minimal care. Periwinkle and bugleweed are also low-maintenance but spread aggressively, which can be an asset or a problem depending on the situation.

When is the best time to plant ground cover?

Early fall (September–October) is ideal for cool-season ground covers — the soil is still warm enough for root growth but the air is cool, reducing transplant stress. Early spring (March–April) is the second-best window. Avoid planting during summer heat or winter dormancy.

What ground cover prevents weeds best?

Dense-growing species smother weeds most effectively. Top picks: pachysandra (in shade), creeping juniper (in sun), periwinkle, ajuga, and dwarf mondo grass. Spread mulch between plants during establishment to suppress weeds until the ground cover fills in — usually 1–2 growing seasons.

Which ground covers are safe for pets and kids?

Creeping mazus, Irish moss, Dutch clover, Roman chamomile, and Corsican mint are all non-toxic and tolerate light to moderate foot traffic. Avoid English ivy, periwinkle (vinca), and ajuga in heavy pet-and-kid use areas — all are mildly to moderately toxic if ingested.

Can I walk on ground cover plants?

A few specifically tolerate foot traffic: Irish moss, creeping thyme, Roman chamomile, Dutch clover, and creeping mazus. Most other ground covers tolerate occasional stepping but not regular walking — plan stepping stones or pavers through high-traffic areas instead of expecting any ground cover to handle daily foot traffic.

How long does it take ground cover to fill in?

Most ground covers take 2–3 growing seasons to fully establish. Year one looks sparse; year two starts to read as a planting; year three is mature. Fast-spreaders like creeping Jenny and ajuga can cover ground in a single year but need contained spaces. Slow growers like dwarf mondo grass take 3–5 years to mature fully.